When it comes to custom dress shirts, few details are as defining as the collar. It's the first thing people notice, the frame for your face, and often the silent indicator of your style savvy. At Damiani Miami, we know that choosing the right collar isn’t just about what looks good, it’s about what works for you. From boardroom meetings to beach weddings, there’s a collar style that complements your personality, your physique, and your purpose.
Let’s walk through the most popular collar styles and break down which one’s best for your next custom shirt.
1. The Spread Collar: The Modern Gentleman’s Go-To
This style gets its name from the distance between the collar points, which is wider than average. The spread collar is one of the most versatile and widely accepted styles in modern menswear.
Best for: Oval and square face shapes. It balances wider jaws and looks stellar with or without a tie.
Occasion: Business meetings, weddings, upscale events
Pair With: Wide knot ties like the Windsor or a clean open neck
Why it works: The spread collar gives an air of effortless elegance. It looks deliberate without trying too hard. For those who want a modern edge without straying from classic style, this is your go-to.
2. The Point Collar: Time-Honored and Traditional
Think of the point collar as the classic. The narrower spread helps elongate the face, making it an excellent choice for men with rounder facial features.
Best for: Round or full face shapes
Occasion: Corporate, traditional settings
Pair With: Slim ties and smaller knots like the Four-in-Hand
Why it works: Its sharp lines and close tips project a sense of precision and professionalism. It’s subtle, yet commanding, just like a well-tailored custom shirt should be.
3. The Cutaway Collar: Bold and European
Looking to make a statement? The cutaway collar, also known as the Windsor or Italian collar, features dramatically angled points that stretch toward the shoulders. It’s fashion-forward and confident.
Best for: Square and oval faces
Occasion: High-fashion environments, stylish events, or any setting where you want to stand out
Pair With: Full Windsor tie knot or open collar
Why it works: The cutaway is bold but balanced. It opens the shirt visually, giving you a commanding presence while still keeping the elegance intact.
4. The Button-Down Collar: Casual, Yet Smart
This style originated in British polo fields and eventually made its way into American Ivy League fashion. The button-down collar is a relaxed choice that still keeps its shape thanks to the anchored collar tips.
Best for: Long or oval faces
Occasion: Casual Fridays, smart-casual dinners, weekend wear
Pair With: Open collar or knit ties
Why it works: It adds a touch of casual structure to your look. You can wear it under a sport coat or with rolled-up sleeves—either way, it speaks of subtle style and comfort.
5. The Club Collar: Vintage Charm, Reimagined
Not as commonly seen today, the club collar features rounded edges and a smaller profile. It exudes a preppy, throwback appeal that’s great for those who love a unique flair.
Best for: Oval and slim faces
Occasion: Creative industry settings, retro-themed events
Pair With: Collar pin or thin tie
Why it works: It’s an unexpected detail that sets your shirt apart. In the world of mass production, this collar signals thoughtfulness and intention.
6. The Mandarin Collar: Minimalist Sophistication
Also known as the band or grandad collar, the mandarin is essentially a collar band without the traditional fold-over. It’s ultra-modern, breathable, and surprisingly stylish in the right context.
Best for: All face shapes, especially good in hot climates
Occasion: Resort wear, casual gatherings, summer weddings
Pair With: Nothing, it’s designed to be worn without a tie
Why it works: Less is more. This collar is a visual breath of fresh air and perfect for those who want to go sleek and minimal.
How Face Shape Influences Collar Choice
A big part of collar selection comes down to your face shape. Here's a quick cheat sheet:
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Round Face: Go for elongating styles like point collars.
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Oval Face: Lucky you, most collars will work!
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Square Face: Broaden your look with spread or cutaway collars.
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Long Face: Shorter collars (like button-downs) keep things balanced.
A well-matched collar can actually contour your features, softening or sharpening as needed. That’s why we always recommend trying different styles during your custom fitting at Damiani Miami.
Customization Makes All the Difference
Here’s the truth: You can buy the most expensive shirt off the rack, but if the collar doesn’t suit you, or the fit isn’t right, it won’t feel like you. That’s where Damiani’s custom dress shirts shine.
With custom, you control:
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Collar style and shape
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Shirt fabric and pattern
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Button details and thread color
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Cuff shape and placket style
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Overall fit (slim, regular, athletic)
And you don’t have to do it alone. Our expert stylists guide you through every choice, ensuring your collar fits your neck, your face, your wardrobe, and your lifestyle.
Why Damiani Miami?
At Damiani, we don’t believe in one-size-fits-all. We believe in you-sized. That’s why our shirts are tailored with precision, built from premium materials, and crafted by artisans who understand the subtleties that make a shirt unforgettable.
Whether you’re in the heart of Miami or shopping from across the globe, Damiani offers a seamless experience both online and in-store.
From the collar to the cuff, every inch of your shirt tells a story. Let’s make it a good one.
Ready to Find Your Perfect Collar?
Whether you're dressing for power moves, weekend weddings, or your everyday signature look, the collar you choose speaks volumes. Damiani Miami is here to help you speak clearly—and stylishly.
Visit us in-store in Miami or start your custom shirt journey online today.
Shop Now at Damiani Miami